Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Fruit in Urban Gardens
Every quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel-powered railway carriage pulls into a spray-painted station. Nearby, a police siren pierces the almost continuous road noise. Daily travelers rush by falling apart, ivy-covered fencing panels as storm clouds form.
It is maybe the last place you expect to find a well-established vineyard. But James Bayliss-Smith has managed to four dozen established plants sagging with round purplish berries on a sprawling allotment situated between a row of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just north of Bristol town centre.
"I've seen individuals hiding heroin or whatever in those bushes," says the grower. "Yet you simply continue ... and continue caring for your grapevines."
The cameraman, 46, a documentary cameraman who runs a fermented beverage company, is not the only urban winemaker. He's pulled together a informal group of cultivators who make vintage from four hidden urban vineyards nestled in private yards and community plots across the city. It is too clandestine to possess an official name so far, but the collective's messaging chat is called Grape Expectations.
Urban Wine Gardens Across the Globe
To date, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the only one listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming global directory, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the 1,800 plants on the hillsides of Paris's historic Montmartre neighbourhood and over 3,000 vines overlooking and inside the Italian city. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the forefront of a initiative re-establishing urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking nations, but has identified them throughout the world, including cities in East Asia, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.
"Vineyards help cities stay more eco-friendly and more diverse. They protect land from development by creating long-term, productive farming plots within urban environments," says the organization's leader.
Similar to other vintages, those created in urban areas are a result of the earth the plants grow in, the vagaries of the weather and the people who tend the fruit. "A bottle of wine embodies the beauty, community, landscape and heritage of a city," adds the spokesperson.
Unknown Eastern European Variety
Back in Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a urgent timeline to gather the grapevines he cultivated from a plant left in his allotment by a Polish family. If the rain comes, then the birds may seize their chance to attack once more. "Here we have the mystery Eastern European variety," he says, as he removes damaged and mouldy grapes from the shimmering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they are certainly disease-resistant. Unlike premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and additional renowned European varieties – you need not treat them with pesticides ... this could be a special variety that was developed by the Soviets."
Group Efforts Throughout Bristol
The other members of the group are also taking advantage of bright periods between showers of fall precipitation. On the terrace overlooking the city's shimmering harbour, where historic trading ships once floated with casks of wine from France and Spain, one cultivator is collecting her rondo grapes from approximately 50 vines. "I adore the aroma of the grapevines. The scent is so reminiscent," she remarks, stopping with a basket of fruit slung over her shoulder. "It's the scent of southern France when you roll down the car windows on vacation."
The humanitarian worker, 52, who has devoted more than two decades working for charitable groups in conflict zones, unexpectedly took over the grape garden when she moved back to the UK from East Africa with her family in recent years. She experienced an strong responsibility to maintain the vines in the garden of their new home. "This plot has already endured three different owners," she says. "I really like the concept of environmental care – of handing this down to future caretakers so they can keep cultivating from the soil."
Terraced Gardens and Natural Production
Nearby, the final two members of the collective are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. One filmmaker has established more than 150 plants situated on ledges in her expansive property, which descends towards the muddy local waterway. "People are always surprised," she notes, indicating the tangled grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they can see grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."
Currently, Scofield, 60, is picking clusters of deep violet Rondo grapes from rows of plants slung across the cliff-side with the help of her daughter, Luca. Scofield, a documentary producer who has worked on Netflix's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's gardening shows, was motivated to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbor's vines. She's discovered that amateurs can produce interesting, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can sell for more than £7 a glass in the growing number of wine bars specialising in low-processing vintages. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can actually make good, natural wine," she states. "It is quite fashionable, but in reality it's reviving an traditional method of producing wine."
"During foot-stomping the grapes, the various natural microorganisms come off the skins into the juice," explains the winemaker, partially submerged in a bucket of tiny stems, seeds and crimson juice. "That's how wines were historically produced, but commercial producers add preservatives to kill the wild yeast and subsequently incorporate a lab-grown culture."
Challenging Environments and Inventive Approaches
In the immediate vicinity active senior another cultivator, who inspired his neighbor to plant her grapevines, has gathered his companions to pick Chardonnay grapes from the 100 plants he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. The former teacher, a northern English PE teacher who taught at Bristol University cultivated an interest in viticulture on annual sporting trips to France. But it is a difficult task to cultivate this particular variety in the dampness of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to produce French-style vintages here, which is somewhat ambitious," admits the retiree with a smile. "This variety is late to ripen and very sensitive to mildew."
"My goal was creating European-style vintages in this environment, which is rather ambitious"
The temperamental Bristol climate is not the sole challenge faced by winegrowers. The gardener has been compelled to install a fence on